Second season, Second chapter

Green tea 绿茶 - Chinese Origins

To the roots of tea culture, with the freshest fragrances of green and yellow leaves that thrived through centuries

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In this second chapter of our second season of Tea Club we focus on Green and Yellow tea to discover the origins of the tea culture in China. We selected rare gems of great historical value to continue our journey into a greater and deeper knowledge of tea.

We'll travel to some famous and other unspoken areas, following the routes that will allow us to uncover the roots of Chinese tea traditions and trace back the development of techniques since Tang and Song Dynasties. Each area will tell us what make its tea unique, in the relationship among land, plants and people.

A range of bright and subtle fragrances will guide us in this journey through places and time, as we get more into the world of Chinese medicine and step further into understanding tea value beyond the pure beverage. How tea interacts with our senses and our body will be one of the keypoints of this second season, helped by the sensorial expantion and awakening given by incense.


©2025 Eastern Leaves, all rights reserved. Reproduction and distribution of this presentation, photos, text, without written permission of Eastern Leaves is prohibited.

Jingxian, Anhui 安徽泾县

Yongxi Huoqing tea 涌溪火青

Yongxi Huoqing tea is produced in Fengkeng, Pankeng, Shijingkeng, and Wantoushan near Chengdong Xishan in Jing County, Anhui Province.

Jing Couty, or Jingxian, has high mountains, dense forests, deep valleys, abundant streams, and frequent mists, with exceptional ecological conditions. It receives about 1,800 mm of rainfall annually, has 90% average relative humidity, and an average sunshine percentage of 40% (only 26% in spring).

The best Yongxi Huoqing teas grow in valleys, known locally as “Cloud Mist Claws,” meaning the tea gardens are enveloped by mist like seeds in a pod. Especially prized are the teas from Pankeng’s “Cloud Mist Claws” and Shijingkeng’s “Eagle’s Nest Rock.”

Yongxi Huoqing tea processing is fully handmade. Fresh leaves are picked and spread for no more than 6 hours, with same-day processing required. The steps include shaqing, rolling, first firing, re-rolling, second firing, spreading, breaking the old pot batch, and sorting, taking about 20–22 hours in total. Its charcoal-drying method is unmatched among green teas, and its ultimate craftsmanship lies in this charcoal roasting.


Yongxi Huoqing was born in the Ming Dynasty by adapting the Tuanlu green tea technique and pearl tea methods. It once vanished but was revived in 1956.





Historical Development 

According to the Jing County Gazetteer, "In the second year of Qing Shunzhi (1645), from Mopanshan to Yongxi, an area of over 30 li produced fine teas and timber." This tea originated in the Ming Dynasty and became an imperial tribute during the Qing Dynasty, once listed among China’s Top Ten Famous Teas.


Jing County merchants refined traditional Huizhou green tea processing by rolling and pressing the leaves into tightly packed oval shapes. Upon brewing, they unfold like orchids, with bright liquor and a lingering fragrance that leaves a sweet aftertaste. In 2010, its production technique was recognized as a provincial-level intangible cultural heritage.

There is a local legend about Yongxi Huoqing: A scholar named Liu Jin, known as "Luohan Mister," once found a unique "gold-silver tea" tree with half-yellow, half-white leaves on Wantoushan. Without proper tools, he roasted the leaves in a rice pot over high heat, creating a tea shaped like pearls or snowballs, with a dark green hue and exposed white hairs. As it made a sound when dropped into a plate, he named it "Huoqing" (Fire Green). It was later presented to the emperor and gained fame.

Yongxi Huoqing Tea Characteristics

Yongxi Huoqing tea belongs to the “pearl tea” category. It has a unique and attractive appearance, shaped like a plump oval with tightly rolled, tender, and heavy granules. The tea is dark green with a lustrous sheen and covered with silvery hairs.

When brewed, it unfurls like an orchid, with a bright apricot-yellow liquor, a rich and lasting fragrance, and a strong, sweet, refreshing taste with a distinctive aroma.

The liquor is light green, clear, and bright, while the infused leaves are tender green with a slight yellow tint, evenly shaped into clusters.

Whether brewed with hot or cold water, once the leaves are placed in the cup, they sink immediately without any floating leaves, thus earning the nickname "Sinking Tea."

Ideal brewing temperature of all green and yellow tea in this chapter is between 75–80°C.
Boiling water should be avoided as it can damage its nutrients.

Duyun, Guizhou 贵州都匀县

Duyun Maojian tea 都匀毛尖

Duyun Maojian tea is produced in Qiannan
Prefecture, Guizhou Province.

Duyun, meaning "City of Colorful Clouds" in the Bouyei language, is known for its karst landscapes with many mountains and caves, making transportation difficult and keeping this fine tea relatively hidden for a long time.
Main production areas include Luosike, Tuanshan, Shaojiao, and Dacao, characterized by rolling hills at 1,000 meters altitude, mild temperatures, and annual rainfall exceeding 1,400 mm. The soil is rich in iron and phosphates.

Harvested around Qingming Festival, premium Duyun Maojian requires one bud and one leaf picking standard. Each 500 grams of high-grade tea requiring about 53,000–56,000 buds. Processing includes harvesting, spreading, shaqing, rolling, shaping, removing fine hairs, and drying: all
performed in the same wok, emphasizing the traditional “one-shot cooking” technique.

Tea gardens lie along stream valleys, shaded by evergreen trees, providing ample moisture and diffused sunlight. The tea variety is mid-sized leaf type, with early budding and strong tenderness.



Historical records and awards

Also known as White Maojian, Thin Maojian, Fish Hook Tea, or Sparrow Tongue Tea, Duyun Maojian id one of China’s Top Ten Famous Teas and among Guizhou’s Three Famous Teas.

Duyun Maojian tea has a long history. It was an imperial tribute tea during the Ming Dynasty and named "Fish Hook Tea" by Emperor Chongzhen.

It won a gold medal at the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco. It is famous locally as one of Guizhou’s "Two Maos"—Moutai (north) and Maojian (south).

In 1956, it was sent to Chairman Mao Zedong, who praised it and suggested the name “Maojian Tea.”

The tea has been exported to Japan since 1972, earning acclaim there.

Duyun Maojian Tea characteristics

Premium Duyun Maojian has slender, tightly curled leaves, uniform appearance, bright green color with prominent white hairs, and a refreshing, lasting aroma with tender or chestnut notes.

The liquor is greenish-yellow, clear and bright, with no floating matter, offering a fresh, rich taste with a sweet aftertaste. Infused leaves are tender, bright green, uniform, and elastic.

It is renowned for its “three greens and three yellows”—green dry leaves, greenish-yellow liquor, and greenish-yellow infused leaves.

Hangzhou, Zhejiang 杭州西湖

Xihu Longjing tea 西湖龙井

Longjing tea derives its name from the Dragon Well in Hangzhou. The well, once called "Longhong", gained fame after being featured in Song Dynasty essays and poetry.

By the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Longjing became one of China’s most prestigious
teas, with Qing Emperor Qianlong personally visiting the region multiple times, granting "imperial status" to 18 tea trees.
In the late Qing and early Republic period, Longjing tea became categorized by production areas into the five Xihu core-areas Lion, Dragon, Cloud, Tiger and Plum” grades:

  • "Lion" (Shifeng) grade: Shifeng area
  • "Dragon" (Long) grade: Longjing and Wengjiashan areas
  • "Cloud" (Yun) grade: Yunqi and Wuyunshan areas
  • "Tiger" (Hu) grade: Hupao area
  • "Plum" (Mei) grade: Meijiawu area

The region has a mild climate, abundant
rainfall (~1,500 mm/year), soft light, deep acidic soil, excellent drainage and lush forests, all ideal for growing high-quality tea buds.

There are three main requirements for picking Longjing tea: early picking, tender leaves, and accurate harvesting. When the fresh Longjing buds have grown evenly and are plump, the picking process begins immediately.

Harvesting time: The value of Longjing tea is ranked as Pre-Qingming Longjing and Pre-Guyu Longjing.
Tea picked before the Qingming Festival (around April 4–6) is considered the first batch of Longjing - fresh and tender - and is almost twice as expensive as tea picked after Qingming. Authentic pre-Qingming Longjing tea must meet the requirement of “one bud and two leaves, approximately 2.5 cm in length, with a yellowish-green color.”

Even a skilled tea picker can only harvest about 2 kilograms of fresh leaves per day, and after being processed through ten traditional hand techniques : shake, lay, press, stretch, toss, flip, hold, grab, press, and rub. The resulting dried tea weighs less than 0.5 kg.

Specific processing

The production of Xihu Longjing tea is refined and delicate. Generally, the production of Xihu Longjing requires nine steps: spreading, green pan-firing, shaping, moisture returning, final pan-firing, sifting, length sorting, piling, and dust removal. Among these, the "green pan-firing" and "final pan-firing" are the most critical steps.

Green Pan-firing:

When the pan temperature reaches 100–120°C (212–248°F), a small amount of spread fresh leaves is added. Using mainly grabbing and shaking hand motions, some moisture is evaporated. Then, the process switches to pressing, lifting, shaking, and tossing to begin shaped. The pressure starts light and gradually increases to straighten the leaves into flat, smooth strips. When the leaves are about 70% dry, they are removed for moisture returning. To make 0.5 kg of Longjing, one person alone needs about 5–6 hours of hand-frying.

Final Pan-firing:

The moisture-returned tea leaves are placed back in the pan for further drying and shaping — this is known as the final pan-firing stage. Normally, 150–250 grams of leaves are used per batch, and the pan temperature is maintained at 60–70°C (140–158°F). The temperature goes through three phases: low, high, then low again, with gradually increasing hand pressure. The main techniques include grabbing, flipping, rubbing, pressing, and pushing. The key well expressed in the saying “hands never leave the tea, tea never leaves the pan.” The tea is cooked until the fuzz falls off, the surface becomes smooth and flat, the tea aroma is released, and the leaves break cleanly when folded.

West Lake Longjing is a delicate green tea that easily absorbs moisture and deteriorates, so proper storage is crucial. For home storage of loose Longjing tea, containers such as tin cans, porcelain jars, bamboo or wooden boxes, or paper boxes can be used. If the container has a double-lid structure, it will preserve the tea even better. It is best to store the tea with solid lime blocks for drying. If stored properly, high-quality Longjing tea can retain its fragrant aroma and mellow taste for more than one year.

Xihu Longjing Tea Characteristics

Xihu Longjing is a flat-fried green tea, known as the Queen of Green Teas, celebrated for its “four excellences”: green color, rich aroma, sweet taste, and beautiful shape.

Tea picked before Qingming Festival is called "Mingqian Tea" or "Pre-Qingming Longjing," regarded as rare and precious. Tea picked before Guyu, Grain Rain Festival, is called "Pre-Guyu Tea."

When brewed, the buds stand upright, with clear, bright liquor. The finest grades have one bud and one leaf (known as “one flag, one spear”).

Top-grade Xihu Longjing is characterized by neat, flat, smooth, and straight shapes with tender green luster. Lower grades show rougher texture, darker color, and less finesse.

The infused leaves are tender and uniform, with a bright, smooth, and glossy yellow-green liquor. The aroma may be fresh and floral or nutty like chestnuts, with a fresh, mellow, sweet taste.

Xinyang, He'nan 河南信阳

Xinyang Maojian 信阳毛尖

In Shihe District of Xinyang the core tea gardens are known as "Five Clouds, Two Ponds, and One Village," referrig to the five mountains of Cheyun, Jiyun, Yunwu, Tianyun, Lianyun, the two ponds of Heilong and Bailong, and Hejiazhai village.

Xinyang has a terrain that is higher in the south and lower in the north, mainly consisting of hills and mountains. Tea gardens are mostly located on gentle slopes with deep, fertile soil rich in humus and a pH value between 4–6.5. The climate is a transition between subtropical and warm temperate zones, with distinct seasons and mountain climate characteristics. The average annual temperature is 15.1°C, typically ranging from 14.5°C to 15.5°C. The area receives an average annual rainfall of 1134.7mm, mostly concentrated during the tea season.

Tea farmers traditionally plant tea in high-altitude areas between 300 to 800 meters. These areas are mountainous, forested, rich in vegetation, humid (with relative humidity above 75%), misty, and have weak sunlight with large diurnal temperature variation. This leads to slow growth of tea buds, tender and thick leaves, high density of white hairs, and accumulation of effective compounds. Especially as Xinyang is located at a higher northern latitude, the relatively low average temperature is conducive to the synthesis and accumulation of nitrogenous compounds like amino acids and caffeine.

Only tender spring buds and the first two true leaves are picked. The principles of “Three No-Picks” (no picking of purple buds, diseased or insect-damaged buds, broken leaves) and “Four No-Extras” (no old leaves, stems, debris, or calyx) are followed. The “lift-hand” picking method is used, gently breaking tender stems to avoid damaging the buds and leaves.

The main steps include: picking, withering, pan-firing (raw wok), pan-firing (ripe wok), first drying, cooling, redrying, sorting, etc. The "ripe wok" tossing technique and the large-hand pan-frying method are unique features of Xinyang Maojian production. In 1926, tea artisans improved the "ripe wok" tossing method, making the process even more refined.

History

The quality of Xinyang tea has been appreciated since the Han Dynasty. The Tongjun Lu records that the warm-hearted people of Xinyang treated guests with tea and noted the superior and pleasant quality of the tea: “There is foam on the tea soup, and drinking it is delightful.”

The tea industry in Xinyang developed rapidly during the Tang and Song Dynasties, mainly due to the high quality and demand, leading it to become a tribute tea. It is mentioned many times in The Classic of Tea.

During the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, tea production declined due to excessive taxation. The term "Maojian" first appeared in the late Qing Dynasty, when locals referred to tea produced in Xinyang as "Benshan Xingjian" or "Maojian." Based on harvesting season and appearance, the tea was also named "Zhenjian" (needle tip), "Gongzhen" (tribute needle), "Baihao" (white hairs), and "Paoshanjian" (mountain tip).

The unique style of Xinyang Maojian formed in the early 20th century. Thanks to the "Eight Major Tea Societies," which focused on introducing and refining production techniques, the processing technology advanced rapidly and the frying method of Maojian tea was gradually perfected. In 1913, high-quality Benshan Maojian tea was produced and named "Xinyang Maojian."

In 1915, tea produced in Cheyun Mountain, Dongjiahe Town, Shihe District, won a gold medal at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition. Since then, tea produced in Dongjiahe's "Five Cloud Mountains," Shihegang's "Two Ponds and One Village," and Tanjiahe’s "One Gate (Tumen)" has been named Xinyang Maojian.

In 1987, archaeologists discovered tea leaves in an ancient tomb in Gushi County, Xinyang. Research showed the tea was over 2,300 years old.

Xinyang Maojian Tea Characteristics

Xinyang Maojian belongs to the green tea category and is one of China’s top ten famous teas. Its appearance is "slender, round, smooth, straight, with abundant white hairs," and its character is “fragrant, rich in taste, and green in color.” It has long enjoyed fame both in China and abroad and is known as the "King of Green Tea."

The dry leaves of Xinyang Maojian are slender, round, smooth, straight, and covered with white hairs. They have a bright green color. When brewed, the aroma is high and lasting, with an elegant and fresh fragrance. The taste is fresh, mellow, and leaves a sweet aftertaste. The liquor is rich, mellow, and generates salivation, with a clear and bright infusion color. High-quality Xinyang Maojian has a tender green, yellow-green, or bright infusion, and a fresh, fragrant aroma. Poor-quality tea has a dark green or yellowish, murky, and dull infusion, is not durable for brewing, and lacks fragrance.

Lushan, Jiangxi 江西庐山

Lushan Yunwu 庐山云雾

The quality of Lushan Yunwu Tea is greatly influenced by the altitude at which the tea trees are grown. The main tea-producing areas are located above 800 meters in places such as Hanyanggou, Wulaofeng, Hanyang Peak, Xiao Tianchi, and Xianrendong.

Mount Lushan has diverse soil types and is rich in organic matter. The area is shrouded in mist year-round, with around 220 misty days annually and significant temperature differences between day and night. The tea plants growing here are rich in internal substances and have the highest quality.

Grown in such an environment, the tea buds are plump, covered with white hairs, and stay tender longer.

Due to climatic conditions, Lushan Yunwu Tea is harvested later than other teas, typically starting between Grain Rain (谷雨) and Beginning of Summer (立夏). Only tender new shoots from medium- and small-leaf tea varieties suitable for making Lushan Yunwu are used. These shoots are about 3 cm long, without stems, scales or defects. Fresh leaves are graded into Special Grade, Grade 1, Grade 2, and Grade 3.

After picking, the fresh leaves are thinly spread on clean bamboo trays and placed in a cool, ventilated area for 4–5 hours to maintain purity. Once the moisture content drops to 70%, the leaves are processed.

Historical records

Lushan Yunwu Tea is a traditional famous tea of the Han ethnic group. Originally a wild tea, it was later domesticated by the famous monk Huiyuan of Donglin Temple. It was created during the Han dynasty and was designated as a tribute tea during the Song dynasty. It gets its name from its place of origin: Mount Lushan, located in Jiujiang, Jiangxi Province, China.

Lushan Yunwu Tea is light and pure in nature. It clears internal heat and refreshes the body. Monks drank it to relieve fatigue, purify the mind and body, and revitalize the spirit. It helped them enter meditative states and gain insight.

According to the Records of Mount Lushan, Buddhism was introduced to China during the Eastern Han Dynasty. At that time, Mount Lushan was home to over 300 temples, attracting many monks. They climbed steep cliffs, braved waterfalls, and harvested wild tea. In the depths of the clouds, they carved out valleys, planted tea trees, and processed tea leaves.

By the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Mount Lushan had become one of the centers of Buddhism. The famous monk Huiyuan lived on the mountain for over 30 years, gathering disciples, teaching Buddhist doctrines, and cultivating tea.

By the Tang Dynasty, Lushan tea was already renowned. The Tang poet Bai Juyi once came to Mount Lushan to collect herbs and plant tea. He wrote:

"Under tall pine trees, beside the stream,
A sika deer wears a white linen robe.
The herb garden and tea plantation are my estate,
I mingle with deer and cranes in the forest."

During the Song Dynasty, famous teas like Hongzhou Crane Ridge Tea, Hongzhou Shuangjing Tea, Bailu, and Yingzhao were already known. Although the name "Yunwu Tea" wasn’t explicitly mentioned at the time, Northern Song poet Huang Tingjian wrote poems hinting at the existence of Lushan Yunwu Tea.

By the Ming Dynasty, the name "Lushan Yunwu Tea" appeared in Records of Mount Lushan, proving that the tea has a history of at least 300 years.

In 1971, Lushan Yunwu Tea was officially listed as one of China’s special famous green teas. With its six outstanding features - tightly rolled shape, emerald green colour with fine hairs, bright liquor, tender and even leaves, lasting aroma, and mellow sweet flavour - it gained widespread fame both domestically and internationally.

Lushan Yunwu Tea Characteristics

Lushan Yunwu Tea was historically known as “Wenlin Tea” and is one of China’s well-known teas. The tea buds are plump, green, smooth, and covered with fine hairs. The strips are tightly rolled and elegant, the aroma is fresh and long-lasting, the taste is mellow and sweet, and the liquor is clear and bright. The infused leaves are tender green and evenly shaped.

Lushan Yunwu Tea is typically described by the “Six Excellences”:
“Tightly rolled strips, emerald green with many hairs, bright liquor color, tender and even leaves, enduring aroma, mellow and sweet taste.”

Due to its rich content of tannins, essential oils, and vitamins, the liquor is clear, aromatic, and resistant to multiple infusions. It gives off a natural fragrance reminiscent of orchid, chestnut, or bean flowers. Lushan Yunwu inherits the expressive qualities of Lushan’s spring mist and is full of the "flavor of clouds and mist," making it rich in fragrance, mellow in taste, and strong in character—qualities that have long made it a treasured drink and a fine representative of green teas.

Huoshan, Anhui 安徽霍山

Huoshan Huangya 霍山黄芽

Huoshan, known as "China’s Yellow Tea Capital," is the birthplace of Huoshan Huangya, one of the representative teas among China’s six major tea categories, with significant historical importance.

Located in the northern Dabie Mountains, at 200-600 meters elevation, the area has a subtropical humid monsoon climate with mild temperatures (~15°C annually) and abundant rainfall (~1,500 mm/year).

The main tea variety is “Jinji” (Golden Rooster), grown in the core production areas of Jinzhu Ping, Jinji Mountain, and nearby valleys known as "Three Golds and One Black." These areas are surrounded by lush forests and misty valleys, ideal for tea cultivation.


Key to its unique flavor is the "yellowing" (menhuang) step, responsible for its yellow colour and sweet, mellow taste. Traditional processing includes spreading, shaqing, shaping, first drying, yellowing, and repeated charcoal baking (up to 4 times) over about 15 days.


The yellowing process requires frequent monitoring, sometimes involving overnight attention to repeatedly unwrap, stir, and rewrap the tea. The use of charcoal heating is essential for success. Finished tea with less than 6% moisture can be stored well under cool, dry, odor-free conditions.


History

Yellow tea originated as China’s second major tea type after green tea. Tea scholar Chen Chuan described it as having “yellow leaves and yellow liquor,” requiring the disappearance of green tones during processing.

Among yellow bud teas, Junshan Yinzhen (Hunan), Mengding Huangya (Sichuan), and Huoshan Huangya (Anhui) are the most famous in China’s tea market.

Huoshan, in Anhui, has a long history of tea production, particularly of yellow tea, and Huoshan Huangya was once famed as “the most renowned Yellow Bud of China.”


Historical records show that as early as the Han Dynasty, tea from this region was noted for its unique properties. By the Ming and Qing Dynasties, yellow tea flourished but later declined due to wars and social upheaval. It wasn’t until the 1970s that Huoshan Huangya was successfully revived through meticulous research.



Huoshan Huangya Tea Characteristics

Premium Huoshan Huangya features straight, slightly open shapes resembling sparrow tongues. The leaves colour is yellowish-green with fine hairs.

The liquor is bright yellow-green, with lasting fragrance and hints of sweetcorn aroma. The taste is mellow and sweet with a lingering finish.

Its most distinctive features are the “three yellows”: yellow dry leaves, yellow liquor, and yellow infused leaves.

Brewing:
It is best brewed in a clear glass cup to admire the dancing leaves and the bright liquor.

A map of areas

In this chapter we left Yunnan to travel Eastbound to the lands where the first and most praised green tea of China saw their first dawn.

We passed through Guizhou, Jiangxi, Zhejiang and then moved Northbound through Anhui and He'nan. We also touched Jiangsu province, where Bilouchun tea is produced on the slopes around the beautiful Taihu 太湖 lake.

The road took us around soft hills at different latitudes and altitudes, where tea plants flourish in a bright green colour that covers all the landscape around you.

Tea, blends and incense

To continue our journey into the world of herbs and traditional chinese medicine, in this chapter we included an aged Biluochun 碧螺春 green tea that we'll experience blended with spices that you can easily find. Each of you will create their blend at home during our webinar using spices that we'll suggest, and we'll share the tasting of this interesting blend together.
Biluochun is produced in the area around Taihu Lake, and its name recalls the curly shape of tiny snails in which its leaves are rolled to. Biluochun tea is grown in gardens where tea trees and fruit trees are famously intercropped: tea trees and peach, plum, apricot, persimmon, orange, ginkgo, pomegranate and other fruit trees share the same land.
The production of this green tea is carefull and limited: high-grade Biluochun requires 60,000 to 70,000 tea buds for 0.5kg of dry tea.
It's tiny curled leaves are tender and ethereal, as only the youngest buds and leaves full of their velvety fur are picked for Biluochun.

We included a sample of our Amber 琥珀 natural incense together with your green and yellow tea samples in this chapter. We suggest you to experience the feeling of this incense as you brew your tea, and enjoy the blending of tea and incense essences for a new tale of fragrances.

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