Second season, First chapter
Shupu 熟普洱 Tea and Fragrances
A journey through the rich heritage of Yunnan lands of the finest Shupu, discovering fragrances and variations
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In the first chapter of our second season of Tea Club we focus on Pu'er Shupu tea, getting deeper into the heart of Yunnan Province, discovering the many shades, identities and variations in which Shupu can express it complex aromatic range.
On this page we'll discover four iconic and valuable terroir that we selected as protagonists of this chapter: from the ancient tea forests of Jingmai Mountain, to the bold "Menghai flavour", these regions are the cradle of some of the world’s most exquisite shupu teas. We’ll uncover local traditions of the people who have cultivated tea for centuries, and discover how Xigui’s low-altitude, rocky terrain produces teas of unparalleled elegance. Bulang mountain, in the South, will disclose the wide range of its tea taste, from bitter to sweet and smooth.
As we want to deepen our connection to tea in this chapter, we will open our senses to different elements and materials, like herbs and incense, that can expand and enhance our tea experience. We researched and studied tea pairing that will highlight new fragrances and sides that Shupu can reveal, when interacting and playing with herbs and incense. We'll tell more as we experience them together during our Club online meeting, hoping this journey will inspire you to savour each cup with curiosity, consciousness and appreciation.
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Jingmai Mountain 景迈山
Situated on the southwestern border of Yunnan Province, within the Lancang River basin, the geographical coordinates range between 99°59′-100°33′ east longitude and 22°08′-22°13′ north latitude. This area experiences a subtropical monsoon climate with an average annual temperature of 18°C.
The ancient tea gardens of Jingmai Mountain primarily occupy slopes, encircling villages and nestled within forests at elevations between 1250 and 1550 meters.
Historical Development
The history of tea cultivation in Jingmai Mountain dates back to the 10th century, when the Bulang people, descendants of the ancient Pu ethnic group, migrated to the area and began discovering, domesticating, and cultivating ancient tea trees, a practice that has continued for over a thousand years.
Jingmai Mountain is recognised as the world's first tea-themed UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. With an area of 28,000 mu (≈ 1,867 hectares), it is the largest, best-preserved, and oldest cultivated ancient tea garden in the world, spanning over a thousand years and is regarded as a living museum of tea cultivation and culture.
The villagers of Jingmai Mountain continue to grow, pick, and process tea, maintaining their traditional practices and way of life. The nine traditional villages, represented by Wengji and Nuogang, are nestled within lush green landscapes and feature well-preserved traditional wooden stilt houses, Buddhist temples, and ancestral tea shrines.
Tea is deeply integrated into the local daily life, influencing diet, social interactions, rituals, and prayers, becoming a spiritual symbol for various ethnic groups.
"Five ancient tea forests, nine traditional villages and three protective forest belts"
Jingmai Mountain can be divided into three main sections: the northeastern Baixiang Mountain, the northwestern Nuogang Mountain and the southern Mangjing Mountain.
Among these areas, there are five well-preserved ancient tea forests, that cover a total area of approximately 17,700 mu (≈ 1,180 hectares).
The most famous ancient tea garden on Jingmai Mountain is Dapingzhang, located in the southern ridges of Jingmai Dazhai, on Baixiang Mountain. This area has a relatively flat terrain and open basin, representing a typical example of the Dai minority ancient tea forests. This 3,000 mu (≈ 200 hectares) tea forest, which has higher elevations around its perimeter and a lower centre, benefits from excellent sunlight, abundant moisture, dense forest coverage, and ancient tea trees.
Surveys show that the planting density of tea trees in Jingmai Mountain’s ancient tea forest exceeds 1,000 trees per hectare (1 hectare = 15 mu). Most ancient tea trees range from 2 to 5 meters in height, with the tallest reaching nearly 12 meters
Jingmai Tea Characteristics
Jingmai's ancient tea forests showcase the "forest-based tea planting" method, which involves minimal tree clearing. This creates a "three-dimensional ecosystem" with tree layers, tea trees, and herbs, promoting harmonious coexistence among plant communities. The tea trees, many over a hundred years old, thrive in excellent ecological conditions without artificial dwarfing, resulting in the unique and intense aroma of Jingmai tea.
A defining characteristic of Jingmai Shupu tea taste is its distinct orchid fragrance and long-lasting sweetness. The tea has a delicate, smooth taste, making it highly regarded among Pu'er teas.
In this chapter we taste two Pu'er Shu from Jingmai mountain: 2018 Shupu from forest trees and 2022 Shupu from ancient trees.
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Menghai County 勐海县
Menghai is located in the southwestern part of Xishuangbanna Prefecture and is known as "China's No.1 County for Pu'er Tea.” It has a tropical and subtropical southwest monsoon climate, characterised by mild winters and cool summers, small annual temperature fluctuations and large daily temperature differences. Frequent fog is a distinctive feature of Menghai.
Menghai is the birthplace of Pu'er Shu tea, the land of ancient tea tree kings, and a world museum of tea tree resources. It is famous for contributing to Pu'er tea with its distinctive "Menghai flavour”.
"Menghai Flavor"
Ripened Pu'er tea, Shu Pu'er 熟普洱, has evolved over time, leading tea enthusiasts to identify four distinct flavour profiles: Menghai, Kunming, Xiaguan, and Lancang. The concept of "Menghai flavour" became popular around 2014 and has since become a well-known tea profile.
The Menghai tea region is rich in ancient tea tree resources, producing exceptional tea quality on a large scale. Its unique fermentation environment, rich in beneficial microorganisms, plays a crucial role in shaping the tea’s distinctive character, making it irreplaceable in the market.
Today, the majority of ripened Pu'er tea originates from Menghai, cementing its reputation as the birthplace of the iconic "Menghai flavour.”
The fermentation process in Menghai often prioritises Bulang Mountain tea leaves as the primary raw material, contributing to the tea’s signature depth and smoothness. Is celebrated for its rich, mellow taste, full-bodied texture, and deep, complex aroma.
Among the most legendary Shu Pu'er teas is "7572," first produced by the state-owned Menghai Tea Factory. This tea remains the benchmark for ripened Pu'er, embodying the essence of Menghai’s unparalleled fermentation craftsmanship.
Historical Development
Menghai has a long history of tea cultivation, processing, and consumption, dating back to the Western Han Dynasty (206 BCE – 9 CE). Tea culture flourished during the Tang and Song Dynasties, reaching its peak during the Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China.
In the late Qing and early Republic of China, tea merchants from Shiping, Pu'er, and beyond flocked to Menghai, establishing tea shops and processing factories. The region became a hub of commercial activity, with caravan routes transporting Menghai’s tea through Myanmar to Nepal, Tibet, and other regions. By the Republican era, Menghai had emerged as the tea centre of Xishuangbanna.
In 1938, to revive China’s tea industry, that had collapsed, the China Tea Corporation appointed Fan Hejun, a University of Paris graduate, and Zhang Shicheng, a Tsinghua University graduate, to lead a team of 90 tea experts, from across the country, in establishing a tea factory in Menghai. They introduced mechanised production techniques while carefully preserving traditional Pu'er tea craftsmanship.
In 1940, the Menghai Tea Factory was officially completed and put into operation. However, by 1942, production was halted due to war, causing a major setback for the local tea industry. Annual production collapsed from 40,000 dan (≈ 2 million kg) to near extinction, as merchants withdrew, tea shops shuttered, and gardens were abandoned.
After 1949, through collective efforts, the tea industry in Menghai gradually recovered. Forged in adversity, Menghai has grown into one of the leading Pu'er tea producers, and the region’s tea industry is once again flourishing.
Menghai Tea characteristics
Menghai Shupu has a strong and unique aroma, most noticeable when smelling the warm leaves after brewing. It carries a woody scent with a subtle hint of ocean breeze, a signature characteristic, that cannot be found elsewhere. The tea liquid is mellow and smooth, with a rich, natural sweetness. After swallowing, the mouth feels warm and moist, leaving no dryness behind.
A classic example of the “Menghai Flavour” is considered to be 1990s Pu'er Shu: mellow, fragrant, smooth, sweet, and with a deep, bright red infusion. After years of natural ageing, the tea becomes smoother, richer, and even more fragrant.
In this chapter we taste an iconic 1990s Menghai Shupu
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Bulang Mountain 布朗山
Bulang Mountain is located in the southeast of Menghai County, between 99°56′-100°41′ east longitude and 21°28′-22°28′ north latitude. The region experiences an average annual rainfall of 1300-1500 mm and an average annual temperature of 18°C-21°C. The elevation ranges between 1000 to 2200 meters, resulting in a relative height difference of 500 to 1000 meters.
This unique topography creates a microclimate described as "four seasons on one mountain, different weather every ten miles”.
Bulang People: Guardians of Ancient Tea Traditions
The inhabitants of Bulang Mountain are among the ethnic minority of Yunnan, representing the true roots of the region's native population. The Bulang people worship nature, and each village has a “village heart”, symbolising the town's protection by its guardian spirit. They honour ancient trees that protect them from storms, and the fire that provides light, warmth, and the means to cook food.
It is perhaps due to their thousands of years of isolation and seclusion that the Bulang people have maintained a close bond with nature. They have experimented with countless plants, incorporating nature’s generosity into their daily lives. The mountain's treasures, including tea, have become essential for nourishing their bodies. Tea was among the first plants that they have domesticated, cultivated, and consumed.
In the Bulang language, tea is pronounced 腊 "La", and depending on the context, it can refer to tea leaves, tea trees, or tea seedlings.
Historical Development
According to Chinese historical records, the ancestors of the Bulang people, known as the Pu people, first settled in the region during the Eastern Han Dynasty around the 1st century AD. They are believed to be the first to pick and consume tea leaves, making them pioneers in tea cultivation.
Throughout history, the Bulang people have been known by various names: as part of the Bai Pu 百濮 ethnic group in the pre-Qin period, as Pu 濮 during the Han and Jin dynasties, as Puzi Man 朴子蛮 and Pu Man 蒲蛮 during in the following dynasties. While some Bai Pu groups migrated south and contributed to the cultural diversity of Southeast Asia, the Bulang remained in the dense forests of Yunnan, preserving their ancient traditions.
The Bulang people have been skilled in tea cultivation and production since ancient times, using manual methods passed down through generations. Tea holds a sacred place in their culture, used in rituals, weddings, and funerals. Traditional teas like loose-leaf tea, bamboo tube tea, and sour tea are still produced today, alongside local specialties such as Shuangjiang Bulang roasted rice tea and bamboo tube honey tea.
In the 21st century, as Pu'er tea gained nationwide fame, tea cultivation became a vital industry for the Bulang people. After 2004, the price of Bulang Mountain tea rose, becoming a major industry for poverty alleviation. By 2008, the tea cultivation area in Bulang Mountain reached 28,005 mu (≈1,867 hectares), a production of 4,649 quintals, with tea industry revenue exceeding 10 million yuan.
Bulang Tea Characteristics
The high-altitude environment of Bulang Mountain enhances nitrogen compounds in tea leaves, increasing amino acid content and boosting volatile compounds, especially aromatic and heterocyclic substances that create unique fragrances.
Bulang Mountain tea is renowned for its bold and intense flavour, pure and rich aroma, and long-lasting sweetness. The tea plantations feature two main varieties: Camellia Assamica and Camellia Assamica var. Kucha (bitter tea).
Local people describe Bulang tea nuances as:
"sweetness in the east, fragrance in the west, bitterness in the south, and smoothness in the north."
Pu’er Shu from Bulang Mountain is celebrated for its full-bodied taste, balanced bitterness and sweetness, and deep, lingering aroma. The region’s unique fermentation techniques further refine the tea, smoothing out bitterness and adding depth.
In this chapter we taste a Shupu from Bulang mountain produced in Spring 2024
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Xigui 昔归
Xigui is located in Bangdong Township, Linxiang District, Lincang City, Yunnan Province. It is home to one of the lowest-altitude ancient tea gardens in Yunnan. The ancient Xigui tea trees are approximately 200 years old, with larger trees having trunk circumferences between 60 to 110 cm.
The region has unique geographical conditions, adjacent to the Lancang River, with high humidity and typical lateritic red soil along the riverbanks. The production area has many hills, with many ancient tea trees growing in rock crevices.
The Willow Leaf Flying Dagger of Pu'er
Xigui’s ancient tea garden lies at the foot and mid-slope of Manglu Mountain, with younger ancient tea trees at the base and older, denser trees higher up. The soil in this area is rich in organic matter and essential trace elements, which are crucial for tea tree growth.
Manglu Mountain, part of the Lincang Snow Mountain range, is described as "crowned by the Snow Mountain and rooted by the Lancang River."
The steep slopes, often exceeding a 45-degree incline, are covered with ancient tea trees. Harvesting is challenging due to loose soil prone to sliding, which makes difficult to stand or walk. Some ancient tea trees have old and brittle branches, requiring careful picking to avoid breaking the branches and damaging the trees.
Xigui tea trees are managed using a technique called "retaining the top and nourishing the branches" giving the trees a vine-like structure. The willow-shaped leaves earn Xigui tea the nickname "The Willow Leaf Flying Dagger of Pu'er". This method concentrates nutrients in the tea buds and leaves, resulting in a robust, full-bodied tea that withstands multiple infusions.
Thanks to Manglu Mountain high vegetation coverage and excellent ecological environment, Xigui tea possesses a balanced yet powerful flavour, much like a cultured gentleman: refined yet strong.
Gali Ferry: A Crossroads of Trade on the Tea Horse Road
The waters of the Lancang River were once part of the Gali Ferry, a vital river crossing point on the ancient Tea Horse Road. For centuries, it served as a crucial link for trade caravans transporting tea, salt, and other goods between Yunnan and neighboring regions. It played a significant role in the cultural and economic exchanges that shaped the history of Pu’er tea and the surrounding communities.
Its significance dates back to the Ming Dynasty (1572 AD), when it became a key transport hub. The ferry was documented in Xu Xiake’s Travels (1639 AD) and the Yunnan General Chronicle (1572), where it was referred to as the “upper ferry of the Lancang River.”
By the Qing Dynasty, the Gali Ferry had grown into a bustling hub, with ferry boats, inns, and shops catering to merchants trading salt and tea. During the Republic of China era, local entrepreneurs like Yang Laiqing and Qiu Yuelou established shops such as Changxing and Tongqing, further solidifying the ferry’s role in commerce.
In 1986, the Gali Ferry was renamed the Xigui Ferry. By 2009, it was replaced by the Xiushan Wharf, marking the beginning of its decline. The completion of the Mojiang-Lincang Highway and the Lancang River Bridge in 2020 rendered the ancient ferry obsolete.
While the ferry no longer operates, its legacy lives on as a testament to the region’s rich history and its role in the development of trade and culture along the Tea Horse Road.
Xigui Tea Characteristics
The tea from the Xigui region is characterized by its unique terroir. Most tea trees grow on rocky slopes with a mix of soil and gravel, known as "goat liver stone" geology. This environment supports well-developed root systems and enhances the synthesis of amino acids.
The tea is known for its minimal fuzz, dark and tightly rolled leaves, and small willow-leaf shape. It boasts a rich aroma, clear and sweet liquor, and a robust yet balanced flavour with a throat-moistening effect. When fermented, Xigui ripe Pu’er develops an intense fungal aroma, a smooth texture, and a soft yet powerful liquor that leaves a lasting impression.
In this chapter we taste a Shupu from Xigui mountain from 2023 Spring production.
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A map of areas
In this chapter we travelled around and beyond Xishuangbanna prefecture, covering a distance of about 260km from South to North.
Bulang and Menghai in the southwestern part of Xishuangbanna, moving up to Jingmai mountain where we entered Pu'er (the old Simao) prefecture, up to Xigui mountain in Lincang prefecture.
Continue your Shupu tasting experience
In this chapter we included 3 blended Shupu that will widen your sensorial experience of the endless nuances that Shupu can have. We selected three blends where the mellow and complex taste of Shupu is met by fruity and sweet herbs of traditional Chinese medicine and by the precious agarwood.
2024 Bulang herbal Shupu with mulberry, goki berries and longan - 2024 Bulang Shupu with Agarwood - 2023 Qinggan Yiwu Shupu from ancient trees
We included a sample of our Cascade natural incense together with your Shupu samples in this chapter. We suggest you to experience the feeling of this incense as you brew your tea, and enjoy the blending of tea and incese essences for a new tale of fragrances.
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